By now I´m still trying to get my Winter wardrobe in order, so when I see a testing call of something that´d work for my capsule I just jump in the wagon. The deadline pushes me to make things faster, thus having something to wear the day after, ha!

I´m a fan of Hey June Patterns and it´s an absolute delight to sew from her instructions: Adrianna structures it with all the professional finishes but in a way it´s perfectly suitable for an advanced beginner to feel confident enough to try them and get great results.

The Cheyenne Tunic is, once again, another great example of how someone can make a flawless shirt with minimum effort: a little precision is required, yes, but there´s nothing scary about this. The placket, for once, has one of the simplest constructions I´ve ever tried.

I made a view B in shirt lenght, with cuffed 3/4 sleeves. Notice this was a first stage testing, so the final pattern has some changes from mine: there´s 3" ease added to the hips and the collar curve was redrafted to fall perfectly with the Y placket.

I used a very light rayon challis with the wrong kind of interfacing: the result of using a heavier than the fabric interfacing is ending up with a wavy effect on interfaced pieces and a wrinkled "paper look". It does disappear after hard steaming, but it´s something to be aware when using lighter fabrics.

 

 

If you follow me around Instagram, almost a year ago I was celebrating the fact that I made my first lined coat. I celebrated by using a cute little line, and I think I´ll make it a tradition from now on, so here it is: I F@#$%*G MADE A F@#$%*G PAIR OF JEANS! (pardon my french again, it didn´t get any better).

This is a new age, ladies. The PDF pattern designers are empowering women all over the world, giving them pratically all the tools they need to be masters of their own wardrobes and don´t become slaves of what the ready to wear industry tries to impose them: wheter by style or sizing issues, sewing your own clothes never meant so much and was never so good to your self esteem as now. Think about it: at a ridiculous price, you get a pattern that fits (if not at first, you can always search the web for free resources to alter it) and all the insight about professional techniques that are valuable for countless other patterns.

Now, the Birkin Flares. If that name doesn´t say it all, I don´t know what will. Well, pictures maybe.

Let´s get into some details. First, what I really need to shout out is it´s not hard to make jeans. The hardest part here, in all honesty, was getting the topstitching right, specially at the fly (there´s a template provided in the pattern for it). Other than that, fill yourself up with patience to keep switching from regular to topstitch thread or set up a second machine, if you have it. And unpick whenever you´re not satisfied. I made these in 5 days, from pattern printing to the final stitch, with lots of unpicking in the middle, working each seam and obviously normal mum´s life going on around.

The denim I used is medium weight with 5% stretch (required is minimum 2%); stretch is absolutely necessary since there´s a genius negative ease at the hip area. That´s why every single pair you´ll see looks beautifully fitted straight from the pattern pieces or with minimum tweaks.

Without the obvious alteration for height (I´m 5´2"), which required me to take 10cm total, no other mods were made for my size 24. I´ve got some tiny waves at the upper back seam (just below the yoke) which I also get on all my RTW because, as you can see, I´m bottomless. The only time I got that bottom filled up was when I was pregnant but then things wouldn´t fit at front, ha!

The fact that I had to shorten so much, even distributing it in the 2 lines for shortening provided, made me lose the proportion between the front and back pieces, so I get that twisting to front inseam effect. They don´t cover the heels entirely because I hemmed at a height where I can also wear flats, which I wear the most in everyday life. Also, the fly is a major feature that needs absolute preciseness - I must have missed a few mm somewhere so it gaps a little.

The instructions are flawless and nothing is left behind: starting at fabric suppliers to tips for getting the perfect topstitch, all the notches and markings, creative freedom on the pockets to make your own design and even some hammering - that´ll be perfect to release the stress caused by all your bobbin jamming. Yes, I won´t lie: unless you have a power horse, your machine will most likely crank up in some places. Nothing going manual on the wheel won´t solve.

About the hammering: it´s the most wonderful thing to reduce the bulk in areas where it´s strictly necessary, like the pockets or the belt loops. I pressed my seams hard, steam on full power, and hammered the places indicated by covering the fabric with a towel - simply to avoid markings since I used a real hammer instead of the indicated softer rubber mullet. The rivets were applied in a professional prenser, in a small haberdashery store in downtown Lisbon, in the famous Rua da Conceição.

One of the things that comes to mind when thinking jeans is that you might want something basic in your wardrobe and flares might just be a trend. Yada yada yada, well, true, but if you look closely I´m sure you´ll find a little corner in your closet where these would look great. Maybe not, since you´d be wearing them non stop, ha! Another thing we´re not used to anymore is that high waist. I´ve been using low waist since my teenage years and I´m never going back. The high waist is positioned to end below your natural waist, so they are really really comfortable to wear and it just adds so much to our figure.

So, I put together some handmade options that would pair up with the Birkin like butter on toast. No, I didn´t drink anything, not really sure where I got all these ANTM wannabe posing, I was just feeling the vibe, ha! That´s why some of them are a bit out of focus, yours truly didn´t stand still (talk about the kids, ha?).

Blouse Marthe - République du Chiffon (blog post here)

Eagle Vest - Vanessa Pouzet

Cheyenne Tunic - Hey June Patterns

 Brenna Coat - Califaye Collection (blog post here)

Cheyenne Tunic - Hey June Patterns

Alice Top - Tessuti Patterns

Basics Dress (hacked into top) - Califaye Collection

 Valley Blouse - Califaye Collection (blog post here)

Something important as well is the actual cost of these versus rtw. These are based in designer jeans, with unique detailing, that retail for about 120$. My spendings resume to this:

Denim - around 20€ for 2m (local store)

Topstitch thread - 3,60€ for two bobbins (Gutterman color 106)

Button - around 0,70€ (Millward pack of 6 for 4€)

Zipper - 0,80€ (local shop)

Rivets - 4,8€ (6 rivets and professional application)

Total cost - 29,90€

Total value - unvaluable

The denim color on these detailed shots is lighter than the real thing - they´re actually dark as the photos featured above show. Here you can see how it´s important to test for tension on scraps before beginning. My tension is surely off, but the stitches are secure - this just has to do with my sewing machine and it was the best the poor thing could do. And I sure am amazed how it endured all this!

And do you wanna know what´s cooking? An expansion pack for different leg types (skinnies, perhaps?). I´m never buying jeans again. Check out the hashtag #birkinflares on Instagram. There´s a discount code for $2 off pattern with code "birkinrelease" and all other patterns in the shop are 50% off. Both promotions end at 11:59pm PST on Sunday, December 13.

This blog post contains affiliate links. I received the pattern for testing purposes, but all opinions are my own

 "Rudolph, the red nose reindeer, la la la lala la la"

Are you impregnated with Christmas spirit already? Have you survived making the tree with your toddlers?

Well today I´m on a very special tour, bringing you lots of inspiration for the Holiday´s with an all star cast of bloggers. It´s the debut year for Holli Coats from Hello Holli, Gabriela from Chalk and Notch and Saskia from The Wolf and the Tree. These amazing ladies came together with this project and I´m so glad to be joining them. You see, Saskia reached out to me, inviting me for the tour; I had already seen her Abby´s footed tights pattern around and knew it was making quite a buzz. She told me there was also "a lovely dress and coat" on the tour and in all honesty, I freezed a bit: I was afraid of what kind of patterns these would be (c´mon, you know there´s some rather dubious quality stuff around). When I finally realized the patterns were the Blue Ridge and the Fishtail Kimono, I might have squealed a little!

I had won the Blue Ridge on a giveaway, I tested the kimono, and I had only read and seen very very positive reviews about the tights. Let´s face it: if you follow some of the things I do, you may have noticed some consistency about the patterns I use. Well designed and graded, with layers for printing when possible, good fit according to table measurements, notches where it matters, good illustrated instructions: these three pattern presented here have all this and more.

There´s a rather nostalgic mist around the Holidays. Yes, there´s joy and white light, but there are also lots of dark rich tones. The fabrics here are all from Girl Charlie UK & Europe, kindly given to me. I fell in love with the green cotton jersey with bambi print, which is slightly faded, with low stretch but very very stable. For the tights I needed a 4 way stretch jersey so I picked this beautiful mustard colour (though the pattern includes pieces for using 2-way stretch as well). The kimono is made with the softest navy sweatshirt fleece (not available at this colour at the moment, but there are other options here), which makes it the perfect warming layer piece.

The kimono is just a TNT by now, so I sewed up the regular size S (4/5), quick as can be. Even quicker, as I folded the neckband and just sewed that to the main pieces, stretching a bit, just like any regular band.

The dress was trickier. The Blue Ridge is designed for wovens and is sleeveless: I wanted to do knit and sleeves since it´s almost Winter here. I muslined just a tiny bodice in my daughter´s normal size 5 in jersey, without the back opening: it fitted through the head, even when I added the neckband I was planning. For the sleeves I changed the bodice armholes, by overlapping and copying the Rowan Tee armscye and using its sleeves. These might not be the best sleeves for the job, or maybe it just needs to drop the underarm a bit. Anyway, the armscye needed another tweak but I just didn´t have time to make it any better.

To accentuate that beautiful curve on the dress bodice and since I wasn´t using the bias tape (not a bias tape girl, sorry!), I made some piping with a subtle golden knit and used it on the neckband as well: not the best choice, ha! Really open and loose knit that just falls apart when cutting, I couldn´t get it exactly even all around regarding wideness. Finished all hems on the dress and kimono with a double needle.

The tights were graded from 5 to 4 from the knee down and the waistband is elasticized since my girl still haves a proeminent baby tummy and the elastic helps to keep them in place. The fit is perfect and lazy mummy here just serged them together (3 threads) and no complaints existed about the seams being itchy (the pattern includes instructions for french seams).

Calling the reindeers "bambis" was sheer genius, I think it clicked something in her little memory that made her love the dress, so much she wore it first without even being hemmed.

The whole outfit just needed something to bring it all together and give it a more festive and dressed up look, so I made a detachable peter pan collar with this free pattern, in faux fur with a purple wool for lining and velvet ties in the same colour. The shoes might look vintage but they´re like 2 months old from Zara, ha!

Monday, Dec 7th: Willow & Stitch | East & Eden | In a manner of sewing | Climbing the Willow
Tuesday, Dec 8th: Kaleidothought | Feathers Flights | Connected by a Thread | Call Ajaire
Wednesday, Dec 9th: Rebel & Malice | Free Notion | The Whole Sh-Bang | House of Estrela
Thursday, Dec 10th: Candice Ayala | Cindy Parrett | Hi and Hello | Made by Toya
Friday, Dec 11th: Just Add Fabric | Conversas de Hermanas | Glitter+Wit | Sew Starly
Saturday, Dec 12th: Paisley Roots | Petit a Petit + family | Life With Zeke | Made by Sara

Make sure to visit the posts throughout the tour and enter the rafflecopter below for your chance to win this great prize! In addition to the giveaway, our three designers will be giving away copies of their patterns via Instagram throughout the week, so be sure to follow Gabriela on Instagram and follow Holli and Saskia for more chances to win, too! Use the hashtag #holidaydebutblogtour to see some sneak peeks and follow what everyone is sharing!

If your star is just not shining bright and giving you no luck, you can get all three patterns with 20% off during this tour with the coupon code HOLIDAY.

And now it´s time to start dreaming about filling up your stockings! Amazing panel of sponsors!

Fabric Shops Gift Certificates:
$50 BWD Fabrics & Supplies | $50 Imagine Gnats | 20 EU Girl Charlee UK
Sewing Patterns:
Hello Holli-Blue Ridge Dress | The Wolf and the Tree-choice of pattern | Chalk and Notch-Fishtail Kimono | Baste+Gather-Copy of all patterns | True Bias-Men’s Hudson Pants | Jennuine Design-choice of pattern | Sew Sweetness-choice of pattern | Radiant Home Studios-Highland House Pattern | Paisley Roots- copy of all patterns | Atelier Louise-Silver Sans Sandal pattern | Tinman Pattern-choice of pattern | Pattern Pieces-Fun Tee Pattern | Lorelei Jayne-Tech Pouch pattern | Designs by Call Ajaire-choice of pattern | The Ruffled Stitch-Flower Stripe Top/Dress pattern | Petit a Petit Family-choice of 2 patterns
Gifts:
$25 Sew Sew Rachel