Inside a Cali Faye

26.3.15

Do you know when you see a dress in a shop that is a copy of a high end designer? And you buy it because you would rather spend 30€ and look awesome than 300€ and... well, look just as awesome.
Patterns are the same: you can choose a free pattern, and play the lottery game of having to make alterations until your boobs don´t have pointers that could blind someone (though there are some free patterns that are excellent), or you can choose from a series of multi talented pattern designers which offer stop-the-traffic tested patterns for a very affordable price.

I've had the enormous privilege of testing a dress for the new Basics line from Cali Faye Collection (don´t ask how I was picked, the sewing gods must have been on my side - no, really, xxs testers don´t exist, so Sarah had no choice but to pick me, ha!).
There is nothing basic about that dress, it shines like a diamond. First, the name. Picture this: you're walking down the street, dress, suede ankle boots and a trendy clutch, find a friend who says "Wow, where did you buy that?" "What? This? Oh, it's a Cali Faye. I made it myself, by the way."

Basics Dress

Isn´t it a wardrobe staple? It´s an explosion of style and I wanna buy make (we don´t buy clothes anymore, remember?) 5 of it at the very least.
For the pattern testing I couldn´t take any chances, this time I would definitely need to make a muslin. I had a grey linen blend (blended with some gin, thank you sir) I was saving for a Tessuti Alice Top but I knew it would be a match made in heaven for this.
For the muslin I made no alterations to the original pattern (except for skirt lenght, cause I'm a midget short) and thoroughly followed all the tutorial instructions. Although it is "Intermediate" rated, a courageous beginner would do it too. All steps explained, with diagrams, tells you how many seconds you should hold your breath while applying bias, you know, the usual.


The first draft had bust darts and these were a first for me. I had read a lot before about it and already knew a few techniques (like skipping the back stitch at the beginning) and it went smoothly, with a lot of steam power from my Rowenta friend and turtle pace stitching. Although the final version is dartless and fully lined, I zoomed these pictures to show you some construction details that are more noticeable in linen.






I found a gorgeous light twill for a second make, and although it's heavier than recommended fabric, it still has a good draping. For this one i used satin bias. Satin. Bias. What the fuck was i thinking? Sarah has developed a great tutorial for this here.



Making this dress gave me the perfect opportunity to shave my legs (I'm a mom of two toddlers don't judge me!) try new techniques and improve old ones, like the bias binding.  I begged Sarah for a lined version (and I bet all the other testers as well) and she indulged us! Seriously, the lined version is awesome because the back and front piece are whole, so how do you fully line it? Ahh, role in the tube is one of the ways I knew but, again, Sarah brings us a very very smart and easy way of doing it.
So, for the final version of this wonderful pattern I choose a beautiful silk fully lined with crepe. Again, what.was.i.thinking. It was hard working with it, but totally payed off for the end result and it feels like a second skin. I don´t need to talk about the perfect fit, do I? ;)

https://califayecollection.refersion.com/c/36c2c

https://califayecollection.refersion.com/l/cce.42200

https://califayecollection.refersion.com/l/cce.42200

https://califayecollection.refersion.com/l/cce.42200

https://califayecollection.refersion.com/l/cce.42200

To celebrate the launch of this new Basics Line, Sarah is offering 30% off your entire purchase with the code CALIFAYEBASICS and you can find them here. I´m so grateful for this opportunity and loved loved loved being part of this awesome creation. <3

This blog post contains affiliate links but all opinions are my own.

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19 comentários

  1. Lisa26/03/2015, 19:00

    This looks awesome. I'm excited and just purchased a few patterns as well. Wonder what you think about Btwn sizes. I fall into xs top and small bottom. I am afraid sm top will be too big after seeing the way it hangs. What do you think? I guess muslin muslin muslin. But whaaaa I want to skip that part haha.

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  2. Andreia Salgueiro26/03/2015, 20:21

    Hi Lisa thank you! I think that if you are really in between sizes, you should go up, since it's fully lined and it's fitted around the chest, not that large. But do a muslin just for the bodice, just do some basting stitches and see how it feels. 😘

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  3. inesmelo26/03/2015, 20:53

    GORGEOUS!!! Can't wait to try this pattern. You look fab. Great job.

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    1. Andreia Salgueiro26/03/2015, 23:27

      Thank you Inês! Try it try it try it! Estava mortinha por mostrar, o vestido é um espectáculo! :*

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  4. Anonymous26/03/2015, 22:14

    Ficaram óptimos os vestidos!! Muito giros e ficam-te lindamente ;-)

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    1. Andreia Salgueiro26/03/2015, 23:30

      Obrigada Maria João! Há muito tempo que não tinha um vestido que me assentasse tão bem, sabe ainda melhor quando somos nós a fazer ;)

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  5. Soraia de Sousa Mendes27/03/2015, 15:43

    Gosto tanto de todos! Muitttos Parabéns! Estão todos impecáveis e ficam-te a matar! ;-) Estás imparável!

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    1. Andreia Salgueiro27/03/2015, 19:44

      Obrigada Soraia foi um projecto tão bom! Aiiii no que me fui meter, isto dos blogs não é nada fácil 😉😘

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  6. Unknown27/03/2015, 19:00

    Andreia love them all and you look gorgeous!!! Parabéns <3 :-) ahhh e ainda dei uma gargalhada com o teu texto, obrigada!

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  7. Andreia Salgueiro27/03/2015, 19:53

    Obrigada Patricia, ainda bem que gostas de ler (e ver). No meio do processo nem tudo corre bem, começar a incluir mais os flops para se rirem mais um bocado 😉😘

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  8. Sara29/03/2015, 00:29

    Fantástico Andreia! O vestido é maravilhoso! (Pena que não fique nada bem no meu body type... {suspiro...} ) Tens tudo para ser uma women sewing blogger internacionalmente (re)conhecida. E por tudo quero dizer um corpinho XXS. ;)
    A tua costura é perfeita e a tua escolha de tecidos impecável. E um pouco louca. :) Costurar essa seda deve ter sido uma aventura... Mas totalmente "worth it" não é? O vestido está lindíssimo e adorei o pormenor das bolas nas fitas. A cereja no topo!

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  9. Andreia Salgueiro29/03/2015, 11:51

    Sara, que palavras tão queridas obrigada! Beeem, não tenho essas perspectivas tão altas, isto tudo dá muito trabalhinho, não dá?
    Aiii a seda, a seda. Logo no corte comecei a pensar em desistir lol, mas sim valeu a pena continuar, totalmente fora da minha "confort zone". As bolas era de um colar antigo 😉 beijo grande!

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  10. Teresa P.01/04/2015, 18:59

    Olá Andreia! Que agradável surpresa... A rede tem destas coisas, e ao encontrá-la, e ao seu blog, fiquei encantada! Tem um jeitaço! =) Também tenho família com esse dom, e algumas peças feitas para mim, com o carinho que quem costura coloca nas peças! Parabéns! Adorei estes vestidos, simples e lindos! Não aceita encomendas?? ;) Beijinhos e boas férias!

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  11. Andreia Salgueiro02/04/2015, 11:13

    Ohhh Teresa isto é mesmo um T1 pequenino 😊 há realmente muito amor na costura, de momento só faço mesmo por gosto, para mim e para os meus, mas se tem quem costure pode sempre pedir-lhe para fazer (veja os links para os moldes no texto) beijinho grande!!!

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  12. Fatima07/04/2015, 16:05

    Estao espectaculares! Ficam-te mesmo bem! (Fartei-me de rir com o teu post LOL)

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  13. Fatima07/04/2015, 16:06

    Estao espectaculares! Ficam-te mesmo bem! (Fartei-me de rir com o teu post LOL)

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  14. Magda19/04/2015, 20:26

    Fcaram os 3 espetaculares mesmo! Tudo te fica bem! Gosto imenso de partilhares tudo, o que corre bem e o que corre mal, gosto da transparência e naturalidade como descreves o que fazes. Parabéns!

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    1. Andreia Salgueiro24/04/2015, 10:57

      Obrigada Magda! Lol nem tudo me fica bem, mas acho que temos de saber escolher o que nos favorece. E o objectivo é mesmo ser transparente, gosto disso na costura e nesta partilha, não há nada a esconder e tudo o que pudermos partilhar pode ajudar alguém a fazer melhor ;)

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