If I look up to my home made clothes just a few months ago, I can already spot the difference and the evolution of my sewing game: play hard or go home.

I´ve started to choose patterns more carefully and wisely, paying attention to details and finishing touches. For a home taught sewist, this is a very important step, as you are learning and improving your skills by the pattern instructions and this is directly related to the designer own skills.

The Biscayne Blouse, a natural beauty indeed, by Hey June Patterns, which I had the pleasure to test, is a very good example of this. You look at it and think "no way, this is too much, I can´t, yada yada yada...". Well, I wouldn´t say you could and you should if i didn´t think it was possible and if I hadn´t tried it myself. The pattern is ment for light and drapey fabrics and includes some intimidating shit things: a welt pocket, a hidden button placket, a collar, all beautifully designed and instructed to elevate your sewing game and make you feel like a professional.

Being sttuborn by nature, I had to try a version in some rayon silk. I have been following this awesome technique to cut up these slippery buggers, and though there´s a bit of paper waist, it´s totally worth it and you can keep the leftovers for some kids artwork. Besides this, I also gave my fabric a starch bath, by dissolving some mash potatoes puree flakes (you work with what you have, right?) in about 2 lt water and it became so stiff it could stand alone. Once I was finished I just hand washed it with a mild detergent and it went back to it´s drapey drooling shape.

My second version was in a rayon challis and so much easier to sew, but again with wonderful draping power. The fit is loose at the side seams but you can easily adjust it by taking in a few cm. One of the things I loved about the pattern was all the preparation steps and attention to details that are sure to get you professional results. It´s not a rush sew, this is made for sewing lovers. The hidden button placket is a notorious marking game, there´s staystitching and understitching in all the right places, french seams, and you can choose to do a patch pocket instead of the welt (c´mon, are you a power girl or a chicken?).

I was photobombed at my last session, but that´s part of it too, isn´t it? They are always around, you sew by bits because mummy i want water, mummy i wanna play this game, mummy i wanna dance, mummy muaaaaahhhhh brother beat me muaaaaaaah, now sister beat me muaaaaahhhh but don´t worry: soon they´ll be sleeping, you´ll go back to your sewing moment of zen, and then stop it to go sit at their room and watch them sleep. All is love, all is balance. <3

This blog post contains affiliate links but all opinions are my own.

Today I´m continuing my series of tried n´true patterns. I started with the Linden but by now I have a few more I can add to this list.

I have recently tested the new Greenwood Tank by Straight Stitch Designs and it was a hit from stitch one. We all need basics in our wardrobe, but there´s a big difference between buying a bunch of tanks or making them yourself: well, that´s the difference, you made them.

Again, as the Linden, nothing extra about this pattern, it´s a simple tank. But you must think about everything that´s behind making a pattern like this: how do you adjust the neckline to please and fit everyone, how low should the armhole go, how to bind raw edges. And this, my friends, is exactly what turns simple into extraordinary. Kimberly is a knit pattern goddess.

I used a very soft cotton lycra that just feels like a second skin. I had this skirt sewn up long ago and never found the perfect top to go with it. It´s a simple lace skirt, lined, with a hand trimmed hem (yes, I hand trimmed that little bugger) from japonese book Casual Sweet Clothes. I´ve been living in simple clothes like this but I assure you that simple goes a long way on making you feel awesome.

The Greenwood is on a special release sale so be sure to add this staple to your memade wardrobe!

This blog post contains affiliate links but all opinions are my own.

Well, I never had a sister, but I do have a brother. A talented guy who is the designer of Nina Kraviz's albums artwork (how COOL is that, I´m so so proud of him I had to share this!)

Well, and I never had a Sister mini quite like this too. The pattern is by Vanessa Pouzet and it is traffic stopping. Plus, I want that hair.


Don´t be fooled if you think this is just a plain skirt: there are 8 darts in total (4 exterior fabric, 4 lining) and really worked curves on the waist that go down to the hips to accomplish that fitted effect.
As I'm trying to build a well fitted and balanced wardrobe, I'm trying to get out of my comfort zone and sew things I normally wouldn't buy, but by adapting them to my personal style, so i feel compelled to use them.
I found some suiting fabric I thought would be suitable for this, because jacquard like that in the picture is really hard to find here in Portugal, unless you go to a tapestry and decoration fabric store, but I wasn´t sure about the weight and finished effect of it, so decided to start light. Besides, I don´t want to go walking down the street and hear "Hey, i have a chair with that fabric !".




First considerations: the pattern is easy to assemble and there is no cutting, you just join the sheets of paper as they are (meaning you have printed them 100%). The hardest part for me was to get all my darts exactly the same; as you now, I´m a steam power fan and my iron is always on when I´m sewing. This is definitely a pressure point and should not be rushed.
There is interfacing required for the waist line and along the zipper. I used a medium weight one to go along with the fabric, but either the fabric is too light for this or the zipper is too heavy, because I got a wavy effect along that line. Darts don´t look exactly the same either (though I measured and they were apparently equal!) so I got some pointing effect.
The zipper is separable and though in pictures it may seam like it will open, it doesn´t. I already test drived both of the skirts and it remains closed so no embarrassing moments expected, and you can use it backwards as well!

On a more personal note, my husband would like to thank Vanessa Pouzet for that ingenious zipper feature: easy on, easy out. Men.
It seams I only talked about faults here, but don´t be mistaken: the construction faults were my own, darts are no easy business, and I don´t expect perfection but wearability. If I saw it in a store, would I buy it, even with those little fitting issues? Hell yeah.