Remix the Stitch


Hackers unite! For Kimberly has challenged us to remix one of her patterns in an unique Remix the Stitch series and this couldn´t have been more fun. And enlightening, ha. I have realised that:
a) I know nothing about fit.
b) I know nothing about flat pattern alterations for fitting purposes.
c) I have no idea if something is well fitted or not.
d) I do, however, know how to follow instructions and operate a sewing machine and a serger like a ninja.
e) I´m very creative when it comes to altering patterns but not everything works.

That being said, I decided to remix something simple: the Capitol Hill dress turned playsuit, by mixing it with the Alexandria Peg shorts from Named. Haha S.I.M.P.L.E. Since I didn´t have the time to muslin and record those alterations on the patterns, I made the changes I needed by trial and error, modeling on myself (aka try it on, too loose here, pin it, tuck it in, better now, now it´s short there, gaaaahh, what if i cut this bit off?... etc etc). I choose a beautiful burgundy crepe from my stash that is actually quite medium weight but with a nice drape and some stretch. First challenge was the bodice, since I knew I wanted to keep the pleats as they are the main feature for this pattern, but it ended too high from my waist, so I had to lenghten it. Because of this, the pleats design got somehow lost near my waist and wouldn´t be noticeable, so I transfered them to the neckline. I knew I could because I had extra fabric in the chest area and pleats are just an easy way to adjust that. Also, I needed it to adapt to the trousers waistband, so I wanted it larger at the bottom.

So, back to the neckline pleats. I marked and basted them upside down, but they were opening to much and spreading towards the armscye and making funny and not flattering lines, so I abandoned the outer set of pleats and left just the big inner ones, played a bit, basted, unpicked, steamed, basted again, until I ended up with my lovely inverted pleat. I named it The Batcave. I´m pretty sure I can put my wallet, car keys and Iphone in there. Not Iphone 6, though. Neverthless, I can honestly say I never saw that feature anywhere, so that makes this jumpsuit even more unique.
I feel the neckline pulling down a bit and I think it´s a combination of the weight of the fabric, the rise needing more lenght and the shoulders more wideness.

If you haven´t noticed, I´ll make you look again by talking about the back invisible zipper and the way that back seam perfectly matches the shorts back seam. I have no idea. I added the waistband and just elasticized the back, so I guess I missed the alignement after doing that.

Because the density of the fabric, this will actually be perfect for Fall, or those schizophrenic days when it´s 9ºC in the morning and 28ºC in the afternoon.
This brings us to hack number two. I have been dreaming about a boho large fitted, flare dress all Summer and finally did it. Fabric is a light and soft rayon challis, again from my stash. I remixed the Ravenna top by lenghtening it to dress size, keeping the hi-lo hem. I removed the dart by cut-and-spread towards the center and accentuated the A-line. I also added a little flare to the sleeves and shortened them, finishing with some soft gathers at the neckline and rolled hems.

Though it looks quite simple, it really was the look I was going for and I assure you it does not resemble in any way a hospital gown. It will look perfect with an oversized cardigan and some ankle boots. In fact, that´s practically my Fall uniform.

But all these remixes bring up a paradoxal question: if we can hack all patterns, why buy more? Do we need anything else rather than basic blocks? Why yes, certainly. Because:
a) I´m not a pattern maker, so it can go wrong sometimes.
b) Some basic blocks are so basic that altering it to achieve a certain look or add a certain feature would be so much work.
c) We are a comunity that indeed supports designers and their businesses. They are interested in making their patterns the best they can so we can feel good about the clothes we´re making, and we´re interested in the same. Win win.
d) I stopped buying clothes but I can´t just not buy anything. And shoes are good but, let´s face it, a girl needs more in life.

It´s the last day of the series and I´m sure you didn´t miss it, but here´s the amazing line up: they´re all really worth a visit!

Tuesday, September 8th: Meg Cookin' and Craftin' | Jennifer Ginger Peach Studio
Wednesday, September 9th: Ajaire Call Ajaire | Heidi Handmade Frenzy | Stacey Boy, Oh Boy, Oh Boy Crafts
Thursday, September 10th: Melissa Rebel & Malice | Annika Näh-Connection | Abby Sew Much Ado
Friday, September 11th: Katie It's Hard to Hear Up Here | Jane Buzzmills | Lisa Mabey She Made It
Saturday, September 12th: Elena Randomly Happy | Allie Indiesew | Jess If Only They Would Nap
Monday, September 14th: Jaime Made By Jaime | Lauren BASTE + GATHER | Sara Made by Sara
Tuesday, September 15th: Audrey Skirt Fixationy | Teri Fa Sew La | Hayley Welcome to the Mouse House
Wednesday, September 16th: Emi Just Add Fabric | Rachael Imagine Gnats | Teresa Dandelion Drift
Thursday, September 17th: Kaysie | KZJO'STUDIO Rita Conversas de Hermanas | Stephanie Swoodson Says
Friday, September 18th: Andreia In a Manner of Sewing | Nienke Pienkel | Abbey Sew Charleston

This is a really big anniversary for Kimberly so she´s offering 50% off all patterns in her shop, both pdf and paper, and 40% off Stitch Kits. This sale will run until September 20th. No code necessary.
There´s also a big giveaway TODAY with some amazing prizes from throughout the pattern and fabric world! Oh and look! For that I have one of those helicopter annoying thingys that make you visit 296 pages for a chance to win! Wait what!? Aaaaall you have to do is give a virtual high five!? Pff, don´t burn your finger.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Happy 1st Anniversary Straight Stitch Designs! Thank you for presenting us with such good patterns <3

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13 comentários

  1. Loooove that romper... And the dress! Everything looks amazing, you know your stuff (stop talking nonsense, woman!) But I do agree with you, we should support the designers work, it's not easy creating the perfect pattern with the right fit!

    1. I definitely need a break after this and just go back to straight cut-and-sew haha! Thank you my friend <3

  2. Ha ha ha "Batcave"!! You are too funny. After a lot of struggling with fit myself, I know what you mean. I'd much rather leave it up to the experts! But you!!! -- amazeballs! That romper is so cool and super chic. I also love the dress you made -- though I doubt I could carry it off the way you do. <3

    1. Emi, it´s hard right? I mean, if you work directly on fabric on yourself I find it easier, but no way I´m able to translate that to flat patterning. Thank you my friend! <3

  3. Gorgeous romper and dress!

  4. OMG. Your romper ist sooo good. Absolutely stunning. And never mind the back seam. Non-sewers won't recognize it...

    1. Hello Annika! We sewers just get so obsessed with getting everything perfect we sometimes forget the basis of it all, the fact that we can actually make wearable and good looking clothes! That´s amazing on it´s own! Thank you so much! <3

  5. the two things look amazing on you so how can you tell that you know nothing of fit? love it and you sweet Andreia are gorgeous <3

    1. Haha trial and error is not considered knowledge about fitting! Seriously, it´s not as easy as I make it look haha! Thank you my dear friend! <3

  6. Wow that jumpsuit is something.... Can you make me one plsssssss! LOVE IT!!

  7. As I said before this is all fabulous! Super super cool, wish my trial and error ended up looking so good and that I had your drive to sew crazy slippery fabrics heheh You rock!

  8. Antes de tudo me perdoe por nao escrever en ingles ja que duas linguas na minha vida sao suficientes. Por nao ter conhecimentos em modelagem os dois remix estao fabulosos! Sempre que vejo tuas costuras você sempre esta tao elegante e confortavel nas roupas feitas em casa, parabens! Essa pinza no mono esta lindisima!